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Mark and Peter Saturno in the cellar door at Longview Vineyard at Macclesfield
FAMILY CONNECTION
MARK AND PETER SATURNO ARE NO STRANGERS TO HOSPITALITY BUT THEY’RE DOING IT THEIR WAY
WORDS KYLIE FLEMING
PHOTOGRAPHS RUSSELL MILLARD
The sleepy Hills village of Macclesfield is worlds away from the buzz of Manhattan. Yet the small town of “Maccy” proved the ultimate drawcard for brothers Mark and Peter Saturno who left New York and returned home in 2008 to run their own winery – Longview Vineyards.
Adelaide boys Mark, 36, and Peter, 30, had been living and working in New York for a few years when the opportunity arose to come home and buy Longview, a picturesque premium vineyard established by Duncan MacGillivray in 1995.
After taking over the reins, the Saturno boys set about finding a new winemaker, streamlined the wine portfolio, reinvented the labels and took on experienced wine industry pro - and long-time family friend - Dennis Rosetto as general manager.
They’ve been chalking up successes ever since. Longview won two prestigious UK Decanter gold medals for its 2007 Yakka Shiraz and 2007 Devil’s Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon among other awards while its Whippet white was named judges’ choice for Sauvignon Blanc of the year at the 2009 Hyatt Wine Award.
The winery, a popular wedding spot with accommodation and Sunday tapas, also won the Advantage SA (SA Great) 2009 Regional Award for Wine tourism.
Mark and Peter are young guys but bring a lifetime of hospitality knowhow to Longview as the sons of Leon Saturno. Leon, together with his brother Adrian, built an empire over 35 years as the Booze Bros with hotels and bottleshops throughout Adelaide.
To say hospitality is in the blood is an understatement. Mark and Peter have an older sister, Kate Walters, who owns the Victoria Hotel at Strathalbyn while their cousins (Adrian’s sons) are Paul Saturno at the Benjamin on Franklin Hotel and Luke Saturno at the Gilbert Street Hotel.
Wine was always a natural progression for Peter, the youngest son, who worked in the family’s pubs and bottleshops while at school at Mercedes College.
“I started working at the Royal Oak Hotel when I was about 13 and didn’t leave there until I was about 22 …that was a pub I loved very, very much,” he says.
He studied wine marketing at Adelaide Uni and worked in sales at local distributor Chace Agencies for four years before winning the Green Card Lottery in 2005 which allowed him to work in the US. Older brother Mark had already been living there for nine years.
In New York, Peter landed a job at respected wine importer and merchant Frederick Wildman and Sons which he says was a great learning experience but a “very tough, cut-throat job”.
“I got to a stage where I thought I could be schlepping the streets for another five years and still probably wouldn’t make enough money to afford an apartment…or we could try and do this for the rest of our lives so that was the decision and that’s why we’re here,” he says.
Mark, too, had come to a crossroads in NY wondering what his future held after 11 years working as a professional actor.
Unlike Peter, he had chosen a different path to pubs and studied at the former CPA (now AC Arts) before acting locally with Magpie Theatre Company and State Theatre Company.
“I only did the pub work as a youngster in my summer holidays throwing cases of beer in the back on people’s cars, or when I was studying but beyond that was never really interested in the game at all,” he says.
Mark had harboured a long-term fascination with New York since visiting there in his teens so took the plunge at 23 and moved to the Big Apple where he was accepted into the Lee Strasberg Theatre Institute.
“It sounded very prestigious at the time and I fast learnt that it wasn’t all that fantastic anymore, it was mostly foreign students who thought it sounded prestigious…it’s lost its lustre over the years.”
Mark stuck it out for a year, studied, worked at restaurants between gigs and got married at City Hall.
“The marriage didn’t last but the acting gigs did,” he jokes.
He performed in several successful off-Broadway shows which led to a show on Broadway (The Retreat From Moscow) working with big name actors such as John Lithgow, Dame Eileen Atkins and Ben Chaplin. He also scored TV work with stints on shows such as Law and Order.
“I eventually started to become despondent about acting; it’s a really hard, tiring treadmill and I was questioning if it was sustainable, and I thought what’s the one thing I truly love other than acting, and it was wine,” he says.
Peter’s arrival in New York and his passion for wine had reignited Mark’s interest in the subject, so when they heard that Longview Vineyard was for sale they could
sense potential.
With their parents (Leon and Anne) living on a farm just down the road from Longview and Leon knowing vineyard owner Duncan MacGillivray from their work with the Hutt St Centre board the opportunity seemed all the more fortuitous.
Mark: “After lots of late night phone calls and big deep breaths we decided to do it and were back within three months.”
The brothers invested their early capital into a two-year upgrade of the vineyard and later worked with Voice Design in Gilbert St to design a range of award-winning wine labels.
“We needed to make the portfolio of wines a little leaner too. Duncan was an entrepreneur who had lots of concepts and ideas but that made the portfolio balloon to about 21 wines which is way too much and it was a bit confusing,” Mark says.
“We didn’t feel like we needed three different Chardonnays, or a bunch of Semillon Sauvignon Blancs or a mid-range Nebbiolo, so we cut some fat out of that and stuck to what the vineyard does best.”
They wanted to maintain a cool-climate elegance with the wines but the most significant change was engaging winemaker, Ben Glaetzer, in 2008.
“We always had six different winemakers with six different facilities, wine was stored here, there and everywhere and it was too cumbersome so we decided to go with one winemaker for the bulk of our wine,” Mark says.
They also work with Adelaide Hills contract winemaker Michael Sykes who makes the sweet wine Epitome, while Barossa winemaker Tom Shobbrook crafts a Nebbiolo.
“We’re passionate about Nebbi, we love to drink it, so we want to make it unique and do it properly, not an Aussie style but the traditional way. We’re quietly excited about it, how well it performs here,” Mark says. “We’re also doing a small trial of Pinot Grigio and with our family heritage being Italian, on my father’s side, we want to explore the potential of this vineyard to do those northern Italian varietals…we’re hoping that they’ll become nice little champions for us.”
Mark, marketing and PR director, and Peter, sales director, are obviously happy with the popularity of Longview whites but are keen to spruik the quality of their reds which they see as a real strength.
“We think as the collective Australian palate starts to turn a bit more from the 16.5 per cent alcohol fruit bombs that are out there, they have their place, but I think people are turning towards wines with a bit more elegance, and cool climate Shiraz is definitely something people are taking a lot more notice of,” Mark says.
Peter: “We feel we’re in a premier little area, the Adelaide Hills, for reds and there’s no doubt about that. There are a lot of fantastic producers like Shaw and Smith saying Macclesfield is where it’s at for reds and we’ve even had Barossa producers come up wanting fruit as well.
“We’re proud of the reds, they’ve got so much longevity, structure, they do change. They’re even better the day after which is a sign of complexity, they don’t fall apart.”
As well as business partners, the brothers are good mates, sharing an office at Macclesfield and an apartment in the city.
“We finish up here at work, drive back together sometimes, hash a lot of things out on the journey, then maybe go for a run when we’re back in the city where the conversation continues,” Mark says.
“We also convene the Adelaide Hills wine region marketing committee. We’re passionate about really pushing this region as a whole, so yeah, I guess life is 24 / 7 for us right now.”
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